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 | snmhanson
Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 27 White Salmon, WA 
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2004-04-16 83262
I just put the tenth hour on my B7800 and am starting to really get comfortable with it. It has done everything I've thrown it's way without any complaints. Today I moved a pile of large rocks (up to ~1000 lbs) and used my box blade to level a 30'x50' area for my kid's future playground. However, I'm a little paranoid as to whether I'm treating my new toy right so I put together a list of general questions I have. Maybe you guys can help calm my fears or help me correct anything wrong that I may be doing.
1) What should I be doing or not be doing during the break-in period? I have been running the engine between 1800-2300 rpms and trying to vary the speed approximately every ten minutes and I have also been trying to take it easy when going over bumpy areas. Other than than I haven't been treating the tractor much different than I see myself treating it after the break-in period. Anything else I should or shouldn't be doing?
2) What should I be checking routinely and/or every day before starting it up? I check the oil but that's about it. My dealer said for the first 50 hours I shouldn't have to worry about too much unless I see an obvious leak or something. (BTW, he couldn't find the manual when I bought the tractor so he ordered one. It's not in yet so that is why I can't just read the manual for all of these questions.)
3) I have a 65" box blade attached to the back of it which has been working pretty well so far. However, when it is up and I am driving around it swings back and forth quite a bit, probably a foot or even a little more. Sometimes if the angle of the tractor changes quickly it swings pretty hard to the other side. It's not jarring but I can feel the tractor shift a little when it happens. Is this normal or do I need to adjust something to keep it from swinging so much? I see there are some threaded swing arms but they had a pin in them that kept me from easilt adjusting them. Should I make these tighter to reduce the swing?
4) Speaking of box blades, what is the best way to use them? In particular, what angle do I put the cutting edge at for grading versus ripping with the teeth? Also, I have been grading with it pretty aggresively going both forward and backward. I've heard a lot of clanking, especially when going in reverse, but it seems to just be the 3 point hitch adjusting and changing locations at the connections. Anything I want to keep an eye out for?
5) Any suggestions of what to get to attach to the tractor to carry miscellaneous stuff around such as a wrench, some chain, hammer, stakes, etc... so I don't have to run back to the house everytime I need something? I was thinking of some sort of equipment box or bag that attaches to the ROPS. Can you get something like this or is it something I will need to make for myself? Seems fairly easy to make but even easier to buy something that already exists.
Please excuse any dumb questions. I've never had or been exposed to tractors before and I haven't always had the best luck with cars, motorcycles and most other mechanical stuff I've owned in the past. I just want to make sure I take care of my tractor and don't abuse it, at least any more than necessary. Any other advice for a tractor neophyte would be greatly appreciated, even if it seems obvious. If I think of anymore questions I'll add them to this post and maybe it will provide some good insight for other tractor newbies.
Thank-you for your time and help,
Matt
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| hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002 Posts: 3583 iowa 
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2004-04-16 83270
Matt, Most of your questions would be answered by the owners manual, so make sure the dealer gets you the right one for your tractor. I have green tractors not orange so I'll only answer in general terms. Break in periods don't seem to be as critical as in the past, but I think it's still a good idea to break in properly. Deere uses a break in oil that isn't to be changed till a specific number of hours are on the unit so before adding any oil be sure if they call for a break in oil. As for daily maintinence, allways check the oil. air filter restrictor, trans fluid level, and just a general walk around checking for leaks, trash on the radiator screen, etc. Again I'm not familiar with how Kubota adjusts the swing of their three point hitch, but it can be adjusted with the sway control to keep the box blade from moving that far side to side. Likely your banging noise when pushing to the rear with the box blade is the three point hitch hitting the swing stops. If youre going to push soil to the rear with the box blade I'd adjust the three pt. to a non swinging serting, banging from side to side can be real hard on things. My Land Pride box blade has a push blade on the backside, but I seldom use it, I find getting the soil to the general areia with the box blade then using the FEL to level it out, then depending on how level you want it the landscape rake does a beautiful job of finishing up. Remember I'm omly speaking in general terms here, so get the owners manual
ASAP. Enjoy your new equipment, with proper care it will last for years. Frank. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-04-16 83282
Pretty good response from Hardwood. I'll comment on just one thing in the list. There's plenty that remains for later and other joining in.
Some sway in an implement is desirable so if there are anti-sway chains or bars I wouldn't take all the slack out of them. I'd also avoid using the rear cutter in reverse very aggressively. 3ph's are much stronger pulling than pushing. It isn't too difficult to bend lower link arms. There are stories of broken cases if something is hit when going very fast. The rear cutter isn't an entirely adequate poor man's dozer.
Another way to break the 3ph using the rear cutter is when cutting when going down a hill. When the bottom is reached most times the box will lift the 3ph rather than digging in. If the tractor isn't stopped the 3ph goes against it's mechanical stops and can break the hitch. Slow is good when using the rear cutter and so is avoiding sharp turns.
If you anticipate on-going scraper work you might investigate a hydraulic top-link. They simplify blade angle adjustments, and frequent adjustments are needed to keep the blade angle right for the work. ....
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-04-16 83291
Just to add to a word of caution to Tom's comment.
On most tractors the lower (lift) arms of the 3pth are NOT pivoted from exactly the same plane as the anti-sway mechanism. Simple physics says that if this is the case the chains will not have the same amount of play in them at different positions.
If you over-tighten them in the position where they are normally at, or nearly at, their slackest point then when you re-position the 3pth you could bend or break the arms, the anti-sway mechanism, or both.
The anti-sway linkages are just there to prevent EXCESSIVE lateral movement, not ALL of it.
Best of luck. ....
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 | yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan 
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2004-04-16 83292
My first point is that as a newbie, never become over confident with the tractor. Be real careful about loose clothing, pinch points, PTO's, hills and inclines as well as tipping from lack of ballast (ie with a loader).
In otherwards be more concerned with yourself than the tractor.
Second point is the banging or jerky motion of things as mentioned previously has more harm than anything. Adjusting the sway bars for less or restricted motion is good. Having some sway is necessary to allow maneuvering or directional changes when digging/dragging with implements like a box scraper, plow or backblade. Don't jerk out stumps, etc. with chains. If your pulling stumps, gradual pulling is best and hooked to the rigid/swinging drawbar. It can handle larger forces than the 3 point. It was mentioned previously that 3 point are mounted in places that can break casings, etc. if misused.
Third point is, I would occasionally check tightness of mounting bolts of major components like the loader frame,etc. since vibrations can frequently loosen things up.
Hope you enjoy the tractor. ....
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-04-16 83295
Kubota usually wants you to avoid full throttle operations for the first 50 hours. They normally suggest keeping it under 90 percent of the max RPM. I have not seen them mention varying the speed.
Deere makes no mention of throttle settings for the break-in period but instead asks that you stick with the oil it was delivered with for 50 hours.
Definately..... tighten up those sway chains..... all that banging around is not good. Get it centered by adjusting the chains equally and get it down to about a 1/2 inch or so of sway.
As far as the right box blade cutting angle.... I would start with the angle the side plates are cut to.
Park on a firm level surface and adjust it so the the side plates rest on the ground at the same time as the forward cutting surface. Once you establish that as a baseline of performance you can always find that angle again.
Then it is a simple matter of how many turns (in or out) on the top link give the best cutting angle.
....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-04-16 83298
Oh yeah.... tool storage.... a very common complaint.
The challenge is to find some place on the tractor where there are no moving parts or control surfaces to be interfered with. Also try to avoid drill into the ROPS.
Let us know what you come up with... we are always looking for fresh ideas. ....
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 | blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine
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2004-04-16 83305
snmhanson,
One additional check I would make is for loose bolts(wheels, loader frame). Though the manuals usually say to check them at 50hours, there is often so much paint between the metal surfaces they can become quite loose before that time, and checking them several times before 50 hours is a good idea.
You should also check the tires pressure too, especially if the temperature varies a lot, to see if they are within specs.
I check engine oil and hydraulic fluid levels, walk around eyeball check the chains, tires, 3PH, loader frame, and the floor (leaks) each day I use the tractor. Grease the loader every 8 hours, it's expensive to rebuild one.
Takes maybe 2 minutes so it's cheap insurance. If I was mowing or in dusty conditions I might add the radiator screen and air filter(s) to the list, but experience has shown for my use the 50 hour schedule is fine.
bliz ....
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 | beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1333 Michigan
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2004-04-16 83356
There is a tool box under the drivers seat. It isn't much, but it comes in handy for carrying around those emergency necessities.
The operators manual lists the following for daily checks, most of them are pretty obvious:
Check engine oil
Check transmission oil level. This is the yellow dip stick under the seat. I added a few pints of oil after about 20hrs.
Check coolant level
Check grille and radiator screen. There is a debris screen in front and under the radiator. Check them both.
Check evacuator valve on the air cleaner. There is a knob to turn on the bottom of the air cleaner chamber that empties debris from the chamber. Keep it clean.
The rest of the items are basic, most of them previously mentioned, loose bolts, lights,indicators, etc.
Also on the FEL, all pivot points should be greased every 10 hrs.
The only point to greese is the fitting on the speen control pedal.
As far as engine rpms, the performance curve for that engine shows peak torque right around 2000rpms. This is where you should be running the engine during break-in unless you really need rpms for activities such as mowing, where you need the blade speed. You should not run at any rpm for extended periods of time during break-in.
Hope you get your manual soon. 50hrs is the first recommended filter and fluid change. The manual is pretty detailed in the maintenance section. I agree with you opinion of the tractor. Besides that 1/4" valve, it's been a lot of fun to operate. ....
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